Wild Rose Age Defying Day Lotion

Posted on November 27, 2015 in Face
Wild Rose Day Cream

Creating Lotions and Creams can seem a little tricky but once you understand the basics of making a stable emulsion it’s really simple and great fun!            

How do we make a stable emulsion?

There are three components that make up lotions and creams

        Water
        Oil
        Emulsifier (to hold the oil and water together)

And three steps to form a stable emulsion

Chemical emulsification – choosing an easy to use, all-in-one emulsifier like emulsifying wax NF or Polawax will help achieve a stable emulsion. 

Heat emulsification – for the ingredients to emulsify properly we need to heat the water and oil separately until they reach a certain temperature before combining – usually between 70°C – 75°C.

Mechanical emulsification
–  we need to blend the ingredients together. For a stable emulsion we need to use high shear mixing. For small batches (up to 400g) you can use a hand whisk, and for batches larger than 400g, a stick blender would be the best option.

Without further ado – let’s make our Age Defying Day Lotion!

INGREDIENT%WEIGHT
TOTAL100100
WATER PHASE
Water58.758.7
Rose Hydrosol2020
Glycerine33
Xanthan gum0.30.3
OIL PHASE
Olivem44
Cetyl alcohol22
Rosehip Oil66
Macadamia oil44
COOL DOWN PHASE
Vitamin E0.50.5
Geogard 221 (or preservative of choice*)11
Geranium Essential Oil0.250.25
Frankincense Essential Oil0.10.1
Orange Essential Oil0.150.15

Weigh out your water and hydrosol into a heatproof jug. Mix the glycerine and xanthan gum into a slurry and slowly add to the water and hydrosol while stirring to form a light gel. Place the water phase into a bain marie and heat to 75˚C.

Weigh out your oils, emulsifier and cetyl alcohol in to a heatproof jug and place into a separate bain marie and heat to 75˚C.

Bain Marie

With both your water and oil phase at 75˚C, slowly add the oil to your water phase.

The mixture will start to turn white (this means your lotion is beginning to emulsify). Mix with a whisk or stick blender for a few minutes until a glossy emulsion is formed. Continue to mix slowly until the lotion has cooled to below 40˚C.

Mixing Face Cream

Once the lotion has cooled to 40˚C you can add your preservative and essential oils. Mix well and leave to cool.

Adding Preservative

Once the lotion has reached room temperature you can package it, preferably into airless or lotion pump bottles to reduce the risk of contamination.

Facial Cream

I really hope you enjoyed this post. Be sure to let me know in the comments below how your lotion turned out and what changes you made, if any.

                                                                           Signature

Wild Rose Age Defying Day Cream
Yields 100
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Water Phase
  1. 58.7g Water
  2. 20g Rose Hydrosol
  3. 3g Glycerine
  4. 0.3g Xanthan gum
Oil Phase
  1. 4g Olivem
  2. 2g Cetyl alcohol
  3. 6g Rosehip Oil
  4. 4g Macadamia Oil
Cool Down Phase
  1. 0.5g Vitamin e
  2. 1g Preservative
  3. 0.5g Essential oil: Geranium 0.25g, Frankincense 0.1g, Orange 0.15g
Instructions
  1. Weigh out your water and hydrosol into a heatproof jug. Mix the glycerine and xanthan gum into a slurry and slowly add to the water and hydrosol while stirring to form a light gel. Place the water phase into a bain marie and heat to 75˚C.
  2. Weigh out your oils, emulsifier and cetyl alcohol into a heatproof jug and place into a separate bain marie and heat to 75˚C.
  3. When both your water and oil phase are the same temperature, slowly add the oil to the water phase under constant stirring.
  4. The mixture will start to turn white (this means your lotion is beginning to emulsify). Mix with a hand whisk or stick blender for a few minutes until a glossy emulsion forms. Continue to mix slowly until the lotion has cooled to below 40˚C.
  5. Once the lotion has cooled to 40˚C add your preservative and essential oils. Mix well and leave to cool to room temperature.
  6. Once the lotion has reached room temperature you can package it, preferably into airless or lotion pump bottles to reduce the risk of contamination.
Notes
  1. Apply to a freshly cleansed and toned face, morning and evening.
Creo Skincare https://creoskincare.com/
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2 Comments

  • Reply jane June 11, 2016 at 10:36 am

    Great post!
    What exact preservative did u use and what exact ewax.???
    ..thank you,jane

    • Reply moirabrindle June 12, 2016 at 11:11 pm

      Hi Jane,
      I’m really glad you liked the post.
      For this formulation I used Olivem for my emulsifier, but you could use another if you prefer. What emulsifiers do you have access to?
      I used Geogard 221 for the preservation. This is an Ecocert approved, broad spectrum preservative.
      Moira.

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